It happens to all of us at one point in time. We get into an automobile collision and need the best auto body shop in Summit. Hopefully, it is not too bad and we are not seriously injured. But usually the car does not fare as well and comes away with significant damage.
What is the next step after your collision and you need an auto body shop?
Likely, after informing the insurance company you take your vehicle to one of their “approved” vendors.
Here is what happens next. You tell the insurance company what company you choose. By this time they have already taken phones of the car and know how extensive the damage is. If you need an expert to take a look, make sure you go to a repair shop in Summit.
They have a computer system that gives them a printed estimate stating what the replacement parts and labor will be based upon a set hourly rate.
This statement is given to the body shop. It comes with a break down of what the labor and parts “should” be and the company has to usually be able to totally fix the car for that price.
Auto body (Collision Repair and Refinishing)
Keep in mind that what is printed out represents the best case scenario and doesn’t allow for items on the car that was missed or problems that come up.
Now here are some things to watch out for. a local auto body shop in Summit is operating under very, very thin margins and the incentive to “cut corners” is huge. Getting an extra $300 off a job can really add up over the course of the month when you are talking about doing at least 3-5 vehicles every week.
Auto Body Repair: Pull on a 2005 Ford Focus
Replacement Parts in Auto Body Shops
Make sure the parts being used on your car are OEM parts. These are replacement auto body parts in Summit are sent directly from the car manufacturers and are designed with the same specs as the vehicle came with.
Aftermarket parts can be significantly cheaper yet are not the same quality and make not hold up the same in the event of another accident.
No Realignment? Talk to Your Auto Repair Team!
The frame is usually somewhat bent when a car goes through an accident of any kind. It needs to be properly realigned. You need a serious all hands on deck auto body shop to take care of you here.
Unfortunately, because the money made off one car can be very little the propensity to skip this step is very high. Later down the road this will cause your car to not drive straight but at a tilt and your tires will wear prematurely. So if you need to brush up on some tire repair, ask your mechanic straight away.
Using Bondo (Fillers) Instead of Replacing the Part
Filling any damage in with bondo is not bad in itself. If you know what the auto body shop in Summit is doing, they tell you, and this is what you are paying for then it is fine.
The problem comes in when you think you are getting a vehicle back that is 99.9% the same as before it was wrecked and it is not. Filling a damaged part in with filler rather than replacing the expensive part is a common tactic and you want to make sure it is not done on your vehicle.
Auto Body Shops and Custom Work
All damaged parts should be replaced unless you are paying a lower price for the car to just be fixed (in the case you want the cheapest price and do not care about having a car exactly the same as before). Again, you should really speak to your best auto body shop nearest you!
Keep in mind that most auto body repair shops are honest and are surviving in a tough industry.
- Hey this is Donnie Smith.
This lesson, we're gonnatalk about dent repair.
Now before we just jumpon this car and start repairing this dent, it'simportant for any repair job to wash it good withsoap and water to remove all the contaminants,the waxes and greases.
We've already done that,we used a power washer to clean the car and now we're using a wax and grease remover.
And this is just toassure that all the waxes and greases, silicones,things like Armor Alls that may have been sprayedaround the vehicle are removed, 'cause this will eliminatemany of the paint problems that arise during a repair process.
This will also save onsandpaper cause it won't be loading the sandpaperwith these contaminants.
Now we have the repair areaclean and we can begin repairs.
But before we do, we wanna take a look at the damage and seewhat's wrong with it, see where the indirectdamage is and direct damage, and determine what repairmethods we're gonna use to repair this damage.
Now when thinking aboutdamage, it's a good idea to think about water.
Because you know if somethinghits water it goes down, and when it goes down italso pushes a wave up.
So you've got the low areaand you've got the high area.
Think of damage the sameway, because any time there's a dent there's gonna be a low and there's gonna be a high.
So whenever you look at thisdamage, you can see that the center part of the dent isof course the direct damage, but then if you look up here on the top, you can see the crown, oreyebrow some people call it.
And you can see that that is pushed up.
That whole top of the fenderis actually pushed up.
So if you tried justto pull out on the low, or push down on the highthat's not gonna work.
You've got to roll themetal, you've gotta push down on that high while you'repushing out on the low.
Now, when you go todetermining what repair method you're gonna use, you mayhave some different types of tools, you may havesome high dollar tools, a stud welder gun, otherdent repair systems.
Where really what you wanna think of is what is the easiest method? If it's a hammer and dolly,you have access to both sides, then use a hammer and dolly.
Just because you've got thehighest piece of equipment does not mean you haveto use it every time.
Now on this particularrepair, if you drop the liner, you are able to get to the back side.
So if you can get to the back side, this would definitely be acandidate for hammer and dolly.
Feeling back there to see ifthere's room to get a dolly, which I determined that there is.
Another thing to remember isthat whenever you're repairing a dent to reverse what happened.
You wanna work from the outside in.
First in, last out.
So whatever happened first in an accident, that's the last thing you wanna repair.
Also remember whenworking with thin metal, it's thin, and you may be able to move some of this with yourhand some of the times.
Doesn't work every time, butI'm gonna reach back there and keeping that in mind that I'm gonna push down on that high,out on the low area, use my hands to rough this out.
Now this ain't gonna be perfect, it's just to rough out the damage, to get the majority of the damage out.
I can see that there arestill some highs and lows, I can feel 'em.
I know it's hard to see on the video, and even if you're doingthis yourself it may be hard to see this sometimes, butI've got a trick that'll help you locate the lows.
If you get a block withsome 80 grit on it, you can cross sand the damaged area, and what this'll do is that the highs will immediately go to metal, of course, 'cause they're high,but the lows, you'll see it doesn't sand it at all, andthis will identify the lows.
Now you can see the twolow areas very easy.
Now using the dolly, I'mgoing to reach behind this panel with the dollyand I'm gonna push out on those low areas.
Also, while I'm pushing outI'm gonna have to remember where those high areas areso I can tap in on those.
Remember, we always wannawork in multiple directions.
Whatever tool you're using, just remember to push out on the lowsand in on the highs.
Also, when using adolly, there's different dollies, different shapes.
You want the shape of thedolly to fit the contour of the part you're working on.
If this dolly was completelyflat it wouldn't work well with this repair.
Okay, now I am working on getting my dolly located on the back of themetal where I want it to go.
It may take a little bitof time to get it exactly where you want it, but I wantit right on those low areas, so that I can raise the low areas out.
Also while I'm raising lowareas out, while I'm pushing on them with the dolly, I wannatap down on the high areas.
This will allow the lowareas to come out while the high areas are tapped in.
This is called the Hammeroff Dolly technique, because I'm not actuallyhammering on the dolly.
The dolly is pushing out on the low, the hammer's pushing in on the highs.
There is also a Hammer on Dolly, and that's where youare hitting the dolly.
Any time you hammer on dollythat stretches the metal.
You wanna save that for your final stages, until you get the metalcloser to where you want it.
Then you can do some hammer on dolly for your final straightening.
So I'm gonna do a little bitmore metal straightening, and then I'm gonna use the block sander with some 80 grit on it tocontinue blocking that out to identify my highs and lows and see how the progress is coming.
Now whenever you're blocksanding with 80 grit to identify highs andlows, it's always important to cross sand.
By sanding in just onedirection, you're not gonna find all the highs and lows.
And this goes for if you're doing this to identify highs and lows,or block sanding body filler.
Cross sanding always levels much better.
Now we're using this sander,and this basically takes the place of what we usedto use with thicker metals, which is a body file.
However a body file will actually shave the top layer of the metalwhich would help level it.
We don't wanna do thatwith thinner metals.
We wanna use methods thatdoes not remove any metal.
So any method that you canuse that does not remove metal is always gonna be a better choice with these thinner metals.
Now I'm feeling out thedamage with my hand, just seeing what all highsand lows that I feel.
A little tip for feeling damage, because you'll have to do that often, is to use the flat of your hand.
Often I see fingertipsused, but that is not gonna catch the highs and lows,you're gonna miss 'em.
So always use the flatof your hand to be able to feel the damage.
Another trick that sometechnicians use is to use a rag, they claim that they can feel it better, it kinda eliminatesthe different textures.
You put a rag over yourhand and go over the damage and see if you can feelthe highs and lows better.
Try both ways, whichever works best is the method for you to use.
Now I feel a little bit ofhigh, so here I identified a high, so I'm just gonna tap that down with the pick side of the hammer.
I'm just basicallylowering that high area.
Now I'm going to re-blockit, re-sand it with this 80 grit to make sure thatit did remove the high area.
I feel of it, and I feelthat that feels good.
It's not perfect, butwith these thin metals, if you try to get 'em just perfect, try to metal finish 'emlike they did older metals, you're gonna weaken and thin the metal.
You wanna get it within 1/4 of an inch.
Anywhere between 1/8 and 1/4 is what most body fillersuppliers recommend.
However, you don't wannaexceed 1/4 of an inch, that's maximum after sanded.
You don't wanna exceed that amount.
This dent is well underthat, it's probably within 1/8 of an inch.
I'm noticing there's stilla little bit of a crease down here so I need to work that out.
I'm gonna get a hammer and dolly in there, I'm gonna raise in on the low area and I'm gonna tap this crease area in so that we can roll this metal back to where it's supposed to be.
As I'm pushing out with the dolly, I'm tapping in on that high area.
Now I'm being real careful herenot to hit the bumper cover.
It'd've been a better idea if I went ahead and dropped the bumper cover.
I'll probably be blending into that.
Another trick you can do is put a couple layers of masking tape.
I should've did that, Ishould've put masking tape or went ahead and dropped the bumper.
Because the last thingyou wanna do is sand into an adjacent panel,especially if it's not one that you're blending and cause damage that you have to repair.
I'm still having problemswith the low area right here, so I'm working on that.
Now the problem with this area, it's a little harder to get to'cause there's a brace there.
I'm following the same techniques, I'm gonna push out on that low area and I'm tapping around the high areas.
When I hammer on dollyyou can hear that ping, it makes a different sound.
You can hammer on dolly someto help remove that damage, but again remember thatthat stretches the metal and try to reduce theamount that you do that.
Little bit of a high, I knocked that down.
Okay, I'm gonna use my block with 80 grit to sand the damaged area some more to see if I got thedamage worked out enough to apply the body filler.
And I sand it and I feelof it, and there's still too much of a low there.
So I'm going to need to goback in there one more time and use the dolly and hammer.
I'm going to use the pickbecause there's a high here.
I'm pushing out on thatlow and I'm going to hammer on dolly a little bit,and sand it one more time to see if that has it.
And that's what it takes, itjust takes doing a little bit, feeling of it, checking your progress until you have thedamage where you want it.
We got the metal straightenedwithin 1/4 of an inch, really within 1/8, but 1/4 after sanded is the maximum amount of filler that most body filler manufacturers recommend.
No more than 1/4 of an inch.
That's the maximum amount.
I know 3M, Evercoat, they all have that on their technical data sheets.
So anything more than 1/4 of an inch you really need tostraighten it more than that.
You need to get it straighter.
Again, with these thinnermetals you don't wanna try to work it and work it,because you're gonna work-harden the metal.
It'll become work-hardened, thin, brittle, it may even crack on you.
It's almost impossible toget these thinner metals to do the metal finishingtechniques like they used to do where they'd work the metaland file it down and get it just perfect, prime it.
Now there is one exceptionto that, and that's PDR.
Paintless Dent Repair.
That's a total different set of techniques than we went over in this video.
This video is straightening metal like a body shop would perform.
Again, remember dependingon the extent of damage, like a fender, that wouldreally go into consideration, do we wanna repair that or replace it? Now on 1/4 panel, thosepanels usually cost more.
And also, it's a weld onpanel, so it's gonna take a lot of labor to replace it.
So you can have a lotmore damage in 1/4 panel than you would a fender,and still repair it.
Many times in body shops and dealerships, if there's even a couple ofhours of damage on fenders, they just go ahead and replace them, which is R and R, Remove and Replace.
Anyway, I hope you learnedsomething this lesson.
Thanks for watching, we'llsee you in the next lesson.
Laser Wheel Alignment: Chassis Mounted Vs Wheel Mounted
The insurance companies nickel and dime them at every turn and they are made to give them at time ridiculous discounts to get any business. That’s why having an auto body shop in your corner can’t be stressed enough.
Nevertheless, all an auto body shop should be on is your side and corners should not be cut at your expense and being watchful is just a smart way to go.
Your Auto Body Shop In Summit Should Help You With What Car Needs Exactly?
(upbeat music) - Hey, this is Donnie Smith.
Have you ever overground metal, making it too weak and too thin? Well it's not that hard to do with these thinner metals.
What about when working with body filler? Have you ever gotten it in cracks, gaps, other placesthat you don't want it? Takes quite a bit of time to get that out of there and clean it up.
So if you'd like to learn some tricks, how to prevent over-thinning your metal when working with thin metal, and how to keep fromgetting all the body filler in the places you don'twant it in the first place, then you're in luck, because that's what we'regonna show you in this video.
Alright, let's just goahead and get started.
What we're gonna do to eliminate grinding a lot of the metal off,is to use a DA Sander, and we can use 36 grit, or 80.
I'm using 80 here.
That usually works well.
May take just a little bit longer to remove the paint coatings, but you're not gonna chancegrinding too much metal off.
This does not take the amountof metal that grinding does.
Now with thinner metals,I would recommend this.
Now if you're working on older vehicles, grinding may be a little quicker, and that may still work fine.
Okay, now for the tip of how to eliminate getting body filler in places you don't want it, and that's simply to mask it off.
On the edge, I don't want the body filler wrapping around the edgewhere I have to clean it up, so I'm gonna mask that off.
Any gaps, for instance here, there's a, where the molding goes, I don't want body filler to wrap in there where I'm gonna have to sand it out, so I'm gonna use the bodylines that's on the car, and use that as a dividing line to make nice, sharp lines at, so that the body fillerdoes not get in these areas.
(upbeat music) Okay, now I'm mixing thebody filler up in the tube.
I'm gonna let the air out of the cap, so that it'll mix well.
And once I remove some of the air, I'll put the cap back on, and now I'm just gonnamix it inside the tube, because this hardener reallydoes separate a lot in there.
If you don't do this, you'll have liquid-ysubstance that comes out, and you don't want that, so be sure that you mixit up well in the tube before you use it.
Now I've already got somebody filler out here, and I used a paint stick toput some on this mixing board.
And I'm gonna get this hardener, I'm gonna apply a stripfrom edge of the body filler to the other, and that usually is a pretty good mixing ratio.
And notice I'm using a spreader to mix it.
I'm not using a paint stick to stir it, because that could put air bubbles in it.
If you get air bubblesin your body filler, that's gonna create pinholes, whenever you go to sanding body filler.
So it's always best towork the air bubbles out.
Just spread it out on your filler until it's nice and uniform.
You don't want there tobe any hardener streaks.
You wanna mix it until it's one color.
(upbeat music) Okay, now I have the filler mixed good.
It's nice, uniform, one color.
We don't have any hardener streaks in it, so we know that it's mixed well.
I'm gonna apply the body filler.
Now to do this, I'm gonnaapply a tight coat first, and what that is, iswhere I take a thin coat of body filler, and push really hard down on the spreader, so thatI push it into the metal.
That helps it adhere better to the metal, so that you don't have any problems with adhesion at a later point.
Now once I get the tight coat on, I come back with a fill coat, and that's where I'm gonnaput a little bit less pressure on the spreader, which allows it to fill the damaged area in.
(upbeat music) Okay I have the fill coat applied.
Now here's a tip for you to eliminate a lot of the sanding, and that is to work on your edges, because if you have real hard edges, it's gonna take more sanding.
So what I'm doing here, is I'm using the spreader, and on the edges I'm kind of feathering that body filler out, so that edge is a real thin layer, and you don't have that big, hard edge to try to sand out.
Okay, now let this setup for just a little bit, and you don't want to do it immediately after you apply the body filler.
You wanna let the filler set, but you don't want it to be dry either.
But as it's kind of in its green state, go ahead and pull the tape off.
This will leave you nice clean edges.
And also before it fully cures, you can block sand lightly, you don't wanna sand too hard, just to help level someof the highs and lows.
Okay, now I allow it to dry, and started block sanding it.
Now I'm starting out with 36 grit, because that's gonna levelthe filler really fast, but notice that I'mstaying within the filler.
My block is not slidingout onto the paint, because I don't want those deep scratches getting onto the paint surface.
I'm just wanting to level the filler.
(upbeat music) Also notice that I'm sandingin different directions.
I'm not just going at oneangle the entire time.
So I change it up.
And what sanding indifferent directions does, is it's gonna help youget a more level surface.
So always sand in different directions.
(upbeat music) (sanding) (upbeat music) Once you have it level, switch to 80 grit.
That's what I'm doing here.
First, I'm gonna apply some guide coat, and this just to helpidentify highs and lows, and you'll know whenever you get rid of the 36 grit scratches.
Makes it easier to see this way.
Now also notice I am sandingout on the paint a little bit.
I'm not going too far, but you do wanna sand out further than you did with your 36 grit.
You wanna make sure all 36 grit scratches are removed during this step.
(upbeat music) Okay I finished blocking, and I'm feeling for high areas.
And usually if you seemetal spot areas like this, that's gonna indicate that it is high.
And that happens sometimes, and if it does, what you need to do is get your pick hammer, and lightly tap down on those metal areas.
And what this is gonna do, is it's gonna lower that metal.
(upbeat music) And here's another tip for you.
If you're having problemsfilling the bodywork, and determining highs and lows with your hand, with your bare hand, use something like this, a wipe all, or a towel or somethingto put between the panel and your hand.
And this may help you be able to feel the highs andthe lows much better.
Now I'm gonna use the tape, because I'm gonna be applying some putty, so I'm gonna do the same thingI did with the body filler, the edges, and that indention where the body side molding goes.
I'm gonna tape all that off, to keep all the filler out of that.
Now when using putty, it lays out a littlethinner than body filler, so I usually just go halfway, rather than from one edgeof the filler to the other.
So I'm gonna do about halfthe amount of hardener.
(upbeat music) But everything else is basically the same.
Mix it until it's one uniform color.
Don't want any streaks in there.
And the good thing aboutputty is it's thinner, and it's easier to get a nice skim coat, but you do wanna do the tight coat, followed by a fill coat.
And another thing about a putty, is you can go over the entire repair area, from paint edge to paint edge, and that helps any imperfections you had in your sanding flaws, or sanding scratches,or anything like that, it's gonna fill in.
(upbeat music) And after allowing it tosetup for a few minutes, now I'm gonna peel the tape.
(upbeat music) Now when sanding finish putty, I'm not gonna start out with 36 grit.
I'm gonna start out withthe 80 to level it out.
And also I wanna let it fully dry.
I really don't wanna try to sand putty in its green state, so I'llallow it to dry all the way.
Then I'm gonna get 80 on a block, and I'm gonna sand it.
And I'm gonna cross sand it.
Make sure it's good and level.
(upbeat music) Once I have it leveled with 80, I'm gonna use the guide coat, and then I'm gonna comeback with 150 to 180.
I'm using 150 here I believe, but anywhere between 180and 150 will work fine for smoothing out your 80 grit scratches.
And this guide coat, it will help you identify any lows that you may have if there are any, or let you know whenever you got all the 80 grit scratches sanded out.
(upbeat music) And one last thing you wanna do, before you send it offto start priming it, you wanna make sure it fits.
Make sure everything aligns.
Make sure that your body work is right.
So you're gonna have toput it up to the car, and make sure everything works.
(upbeat music) Always, thanks for watching this video.
Be sure and share it with your friends.
Give us a thumbs up, a like, and be sure to subscribe to our channel.
Also be sure to go to CollisionBlast.
And there we have hours of free autobody and painttraining videos like this one, and a lot of other resources for you.
Thanks again for watching.
Have a safe and productive week, and we'll see you in the next video.