If you’re looking for an auto body shop in New Jersey make sure you give Peotters Tire & Auto a call as the New Jersey areas premier tire and brake shop. Today’s vehicles are made with many different types of fuel-saving materials like lightweight alloys and plastics. It is important for an auto body shop in New Jersey to be aware of the different materials and techniques used for repairing them.
Auto body shops like Peotter’s Tire and Auto and collision repair services refer to manuals for instructions repairing bumpers. The different material types require various finish materials, removal and installation procedures.
When a plastic bumper is cracked or has a small hole it can be repaired to look as good as new. Replacing the bumper is wasteful and it creates unnecessary debris for our landfills.
A good, eco-friendly auto body shop in New Jersey will only recommend replacing the bumper if the damage is severe enough that repair time would be considered unreasonable and quality of results would be unsatisfactory.
- Hey this is Donnie Smith.
This lesson, we're gonnatalk about dent repair.
Now before we just jumpon this car and start repairing this dent, it'simportant for any repair job to wash it good withsoap and water to remove all the contaminants,the waxes and greases.
We've already done that,we used a power washer to clean the car and now we're using a wax and grease remover.
And this is just toassure that all the waxes and greases, silicones,things like Armor Alls that may have been sprayedaround the vehicle are removed, 'cause this will eliminatemany of the paint problems that arise during a repair process.
This will also save onsandpaper cause it won't be loading the sandpaperwith these contaminants.
Now we have the repair areaclean and we can begin repairs.
But before we do, we wanna take a look at the damage and seewhat's wrong with it, see where the indirectdamage is and direct damage, and determine what repairmethods we're gonna use to repair this damage.
Now when thinking aboutdamage, it's a good idea to think about water.
Because you know if somethinghits water it goes down, and when it goes down italso pushes a wave up.
So you've got the low areaand you've got the high area.
Think of damage the sameway, because any time there's a dent there's gonna be a low and there's gonna be a high.
So whenever you look at thisdamage, you can see that the center part of the dent isof course the direct damage, but then if you look up here on the top, you can see the crown, oreyebrow some people call it.
And you can see that that is pushed up.
That whole top of the fenderis actually pushed up.
So if you tried justto pull out on the low, or push down on the highthat's not gonna work.
You've got to roll themetal, you've gotta push down on that high while you'repushing out on the low.
Now, when you go todetermining what repair method you're gonna use, you mayhave some different types of tools, you may havesome high dollar tools, a stud welder gun, otherdent repair systems.
Where really what you wanna think of is what is the easiest method? If it's a hammer and dolly,you have access to both sides, then use a hammer and dolly.
Just because you've got thehighest piece of equipment does not mean you haveto use it every time.
Now on this particularrepair, if you drop the liner, you are able to get to the back side.
So if you can get to the back side, this would definitely be acandidate for hammer and dolly.
Feeling back there to see ifthere's room to get a dolly, which I determined that there is.
Another thing to remember isthat whenever you're repairing a dent to reverse what happened.
You wanna work from the outside in.
First in, last out.
So whatever happened first in an accident, that's the last thing you wanna repair.
Also remember whenworking with thin metal, it's thin, and you may be able to move some of this with yourhand some of the times.
Doesn't work every time, butI'm gonna reach back there and keeping that in mind that I'm gonna push down on that high,out on the low area, use my hands to rough this out.
Now this ain't gonna be perfect, it's just to rough out the damage, to get the majority of the damage out.
I can see that there arestill some highs and lows, I can feel 'em.
I know it's hard to see on the video, and even if you're doingthis yourself it may be hard to see this sometimes, butI've got a trick that'll help you locate the lows.
If you get a block withsome 80 grit on it, you can cross sand the damaged area, and what this'll do is that the highs will immediately go to metal, of course, 'cause they're high,but the lows, you'll see it doesn't sand it at all, andthis will identify the lows.
Now you can see the twolow areas very easy.
Now using the dolly, I'mgoing to reach behind this panel with the dollyand I'm gonna push out on those low areas.
Also, while I'm pushing outI'm gonna have to remember where those high areas areso I can tap in on those.
Remember, we always wannawork in multiple directions.
Whatever tool you're using, just remember to push out on the lowsand in on the highs.
Also, when using adolly, there's different dollies, different shapes.
You want the shape of thedolly to fit the contour of the part you're working on.
If this dolly was completelyflat it wouldn't work well with this repair.
Okay, now I am working on getting my dolly located on the back of themetal where I want it to go.
It may take a little bitof time to get it exactly where you want it, but I wantit right on those low areas, so that I can raise the low areas out.
Also while I'm raising lowareas out, while I'm pushing on them with the dolly, I wannatap down on the high areas.
This will allow the lowareas to come out while the high areas are tapped in.
This is called the Hammeroff Dolly technique, because I'm not actuallyhammering on the dolly.
The dolly is pushing out on the low, the hammer's pushing in on the highs.
There is also a Hammer on Dolly, and that's where youare hitting the dolly.
Any time you hammer on dollythat stretches the metal.
You wanna save that for your final stages, until you get the metalcloser to where you want it.
Then you can do some hammer on dolly for your final straightening.
So I'm gonna do a little bitmore metal straightening, and then I'm gonna use the block sander with some 80 grit on it tocontinue blocking that out to identify my highs and lows and see how the progress is coming.
Now whenever you're blocksanding with 80 grit to identify highs andlows, it's always important to cross sand.
By sanding in just onedirection, you're not gonna find all the highs and lows.
And this goes for if you're doing this to identify highs and lows,or block sanding body filler.
Cross sanding always levels much better.
Now we're using this sander,and this basically takes the place of what we usedto use with thicker metals, which is a body file.
However a body file will actually shave the top layer of the metalwhich would help level it.
We don't wanna do thatwith thinner metals.
We wanna use methods thatdoes not remove any metal.
So any method that you canuse that does not remove metal is always gonna be a better choice with these thinner metals.
Now I'm feeling out thedamage with my hand, just seeing what all highsand lows that I feel.
A little tip for feeling damage, because you'll have to do that often, is to use the flat of your hand.
Often I see fingertipsused, but that is not gonna catch the highs and lows,you're gonna miss 'em.
So always use the flatof your hand to be able to feel the damage.
Another trick that sometechnicians use is to use a rag, they claim that they can feel it better, it kinda eliminatesthe different textures.
You put a rag over yourhand and go over the damage and see if you can feelthe highs and lows better.
Try both ways, whichever works best is the method for you to use.
Now I feel a little bit ofhigh, so here I identified a high, so I'm just gonna tap that down with the pick side of the hammer.
I'm just basicallylowering that high area.
Now I'm going to re-blockit, re-sand it with this 80 grit to make sure thatit did remove the high area.
I feel of it, and I feelthat that feels good.
It's not perfect, butwith these thin metals, if you try to get 'em just perfect, try to metal finish 'emlike they did older metals, you're gonna weaken and thin the metal.
You wanna get it within 1/4 of an inch.
Anywhere between 1/8 and 1/4 is what most body fillersuppliers recommend.
However, you don't wannaexceed 1/4 of an inch, that's maximum after sanded.
You don't wanna exceed that amount.
This dent is well underthat, it's probably within 1/8 of an inch.
I'm noticing there's stilla little bit of a crease down here so I need to work that out.
I'm gonna get a hammer and dolly in there, I'm gonna raise in on the low area and I'm gonna tap this crease area in so that we can roll this metal back to where it's supposed to be.
As I'm pushing out with the dolly, I'm tapping in on that high area.
Now I'm being real careful herenot to hit the bumper cover.
It'd've been a better idea if I went ahead and dropped the bumper cover.
I'll probably be blending into that.
Another trick you can do is put a couple layers of masking tape.
I should've did that, Ishould've put masking tape or went ahead and dropped the bumper.
Because the last thingyou wanna do is sand into an adjacent panel,especially if it's not one that you're blending and cause damage that you have to repair.
I'm still having problemswith the low area right here, so I'm working on that.
Now the problem with this area, it's a little harder to get to'cause there's a brace there.
I'm following the same techniques, I'm gonna push out on that low area and I'm tapping around the high areas.
When I hammer on dollyyou can hear that ping, it makes a different sound.
You can hammer on dolly someto help remove that damage, but again remember thatthat stretches the metal and try to reduce theamount that you do that.
Little bit of a high, I knocked that down.
Okay, I'm gonna use my block with 80 grit to sand the damaged area some more to see if I got thedamage worked out enough to apply the body filler.
And I sand it and I feelof it, and there's still too much of a low there.
So I'm going to need to goback in there one more time and use the dolly and hammer.
I'm going to use the pickbecause there's a high here.
I'm pushing out on thatlow and I'm going to hammer on dolly a little bit,and sand it one more time to see if that has it.
And that's what it takes, itjust takes doing a little bit, feeling of it, checking your progress until you have thedamage where you want it.
We got the metal straightenedwithin 1/4 of an inch, really within 1/8, but 1/4 after sanded is the maximum amount of filler that most body filler manufacturers recommend.
No more than 1/4 of an inch.
That's the maximum amount.
I know 3M, Evercoat, they all have that on their technical data sheets.
So anything more than 1/4 of an inch you really need tostraighten it more than that.
You need to get it straighter.
Again, with these thinnermetals you don't wanna try to work it and work it,because you're gonna work-harden the metal.
It'll become work-hardened, thin, brittle, it may even crack on you.
It's almost impossible toget these thinner metals to do the metal finishingtechniques like they used to do where they'd work the metaland file it down and get it just perfect, prime it.
Now there is one exceptionto that, and that's PDR.
Paintless Dent Repair.
That's a total different set of techniques than we went over in this video.
This video is straightening metal like a body shop would perform.
Again, remember dependingon the extent of damage, like a fender, that wouldreally go into consideration, do we wanna repair that or replace it? Now on 1/4 panel, thosepanels usually cost more.
And also, it's a weld onpanel, so it's gonna take a lot of labor to replace it.
So you can have a lotmore damage in 1/4 panel than you would a fender,and still repair it.
Many times in body shops and dealerships, if there's even a couple ofhours of damage on fenders, they just go ahead and replace them, which is R and R, Remove and Replace.
Anyway, I hope you learnedsomething this lesson.
Thanks for watching, we'llsee you in the next lesson.
The cost of repairing small abrasions, cracks and holes in plastic bumpers is often much cheaper than replacing the part.
Of course, many collision repair technicians would rather replace the part and charge a fee for their labor plus mark-up on the price of the part because they lack in cosmetic repair skills and it is easier to warranty the work.
Working with Plastics
The first step to repairing plastic bumpers is to identify the material in order to choose the method of repair. Auto body shops use ISO codes on the parts to identify the various families of plastics. They cross-reference the codes with charts from the suppliers or by accessing reference materials on the internet.
It is important that the collision repair technician determine the type of plastic they are working with so they know the proper welding procedure to use to avoid damage to the part.
Some plastics can be welded with an airless welder or hot-air welder; others require a hot glue type of procedure. Tests must be performed and welding procedures have to be done correctly to avoid adhesion failure. Some bumpers will melt with a slight color change and they will remain tacky in the area where they have melted.
The bumper repair technician must identify the type of plastic they are working with in order to be successful with adhesive repairs. Failure to properly identify the plastic results in adhesion-related problems.
Some repair materials are based on flexible and rigid plastics. Using the wrong material can cause cracking when the part is flexed or it may not provide the correct strength for the repair area.
Cleaning and Prep
Proper cleaning and prep is critical for proper adhesion and finish. Whether the technician is repairing or replacing the bumper, the part will need to be cleaned. The bumper being repaired is likely to be dirty from the road; the new replacement part can have contamination on it from the manufacturing process.
Auto body repair professionals should use a low-VOC surface cleaner or a special plastics parts cleaner to help prevent solvents from going too deep into the plastic. If solvents are too harsh, they go deep into the plastic and cause adhesion problems after repairs are done.
This is an overview of the process of working with plastics. Time is money in the auto body industry; therefore, many collision repair technicians choose to replace rather than repair plastic bumpers and other parts.
Technology allows us to repair many items that are often replaced. As resources become scarce and landfills become over-full, we really should consider repairing rather than replacing when possible.
Who Really IS the Best Auto Body Shop in New Jersey ?
Many of us do not realise the importance of proper wheel alignment in our cars. We tend to think that nothing much happens to our tires other than an occasional puncture. Nothing can be further from the truth. It is very important that we regularly get our wheels aligned and I would say it should be done as often as we get the car serviced.Wheel alignment is making sure that the wheels of the car are perpendicular to the road; also it makes sure that the wheels are parallel to one otherSave FuelWhen the wheels of the car are not aligned, what happens is that there is uneven pressure on the tires. They tend to push against each other. When that happens the car faces uneven friction and much more resistance from the road surface. This means that your car has to work that much harder to move forward and consequently that much more fuel is burned.When you align the wheels properly the there is much less resistance from the road surface. This results in not only a smoother drive but savings in your gas bill.When should you get your wheels aligned?If you find that when your steering is pointing straight forward and then the car veers to the right or left. That is an indicator. Another indicator is when you examine your tires you find that one side is worn out more than the other. The thumb rule is that you should get you wheels aligned once every 6000 miles or 6 months whichever is earlier. You should also get your wheels aligned if you have hit something on the road.Please note that wheel alignment is not the same as wheel balancing. Many people think that both are the same. Many tire retailers will tell you that they are the same thing. Wheel balancing is simply the adjusting the balance between the tire and the rim. It is important not to get confused between the two.
Body shops say insurance companies are skimping on repairs
How many times have you been in this situation: You are owed money on a construction project and are thinking of filing a mechanic's lien. But you know that after filing it there will begin a serious dispute process, and probably involving the hiring of lawyers on each side. You would like to send a notice to the other side telling them that if it is not paid, more serious steps will be taken. Well, there is a form to be used in this situation. In my experience, this is a very popular form--so much so we would like to make it available to the construction industry.This form below warns the owner that you will be filing a mechanic's lien if payment is not made within ten days. Hopefully, it will create a serious dialogue for settlement. Come up with your bottom line amount to settle and be prepared to offer it to the owner if he or she is negotiating in good faith. Remember that the last thing an owner wants is a lien on their property: it jeopardizes title, interferes with their relationship with the construction lender, and prevents refinancing or sale. This Notice is worded in a non-threatening manner so as to capitalize on this situation, with the owner knowing that you are required by law to file a lien within a set period of time or lose your lien rights.WHO CAN USE THIS FORM? All persons, whether general contractor, subcontractor, or supplier.HOW TO SERVE: There is no need to file this with the court or record with the recorder's office. It is simply served by mailing.WHO TO SERVE: If you are a general contractor, serve the owner and construction lender. If you are a subcontractor or supplier, serve the owner, general, and construction lender.HOW TO SERVE: Although not required, it is recommended for its effectiveness to be served by certified mail.WHEN: Serve ten days before you file or record the mechanic's lien. Remember, it does not extend the time to file a mechanic's lien.NOTARIZED? No.COPIES: The original signed copies are served. Keep an extra copy for your records.CERTIFICATE OF MAILING. Use a standard Proof of Service form. Sign this Proof (it is like a certificate of mailing) and staple it to the form so you have proof it was mailed to the various persons or entities.MARGINS AND FONT. This is a Word document so use the following margins so it prints out properly: Top: 18 pt; Bottom: 22 pt; Left: 58 pt; Right: 58 pt. Type size is 12.HOW TO USE? Cut and paste the form into a new Word document.WHICH STATES?Use this notice only in the following states: Alabama, Alaska, Arizona, Florida, Idaho, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Louisiana, Maine, Massachusetts, Michigan, Minnesota, Mississippi, Montana, Nebraska, New Mexico, New York, North Carolina, Ohio, Oklahoma, Oregon, South Carolina, South Dakota, Tennessee, Texas, Utah, Vermont, Virginia, Washington, and West Virginia.As to California, you can use it until further notice. California is in the process of amending its mechanic's lien statutes which will require a specific notice. Check our web site for that new form.SAMPLE FORM STARTS HERENOTICE OF INTENTION TO FILE A MECHANIC'S LIEN (General) (This is not a Mechanic's Lien, nor a reflection on the credit of any contractor)__________________________________________________________________________________ Via Certified MailTO OWNER:_________________________________________________ (name(s))________________________________________________ (address--no. and street)________________________________________________ (address--city, state, zip)FROM GENERAL CONTRACTOR:_______________________________________________ (name(s))_______________________________________________ (address--no. and street)_______________________________________________ (address--city, state, zip)______________________________________________ (fax/phone)Please take notice that the undersigned lien claimant intends to file a Mechanic's Lien against your property if payment is not made for moneys owed as follows:PROJECT NAME: __________________________________________________________________________________PROPERTY SUBJECT TO LIEN (common street address or other description): __________________________________________________________________________________(1) General description of construction services furnished by Lien Claimant: _________________________________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________(2) Amount due: Through _________ (date) is $ _____________ after just credits (total performed, with extras of $ ___________ , less payments of $ ____________ ). Unpaid invoice(s) attached. Attorney's fees and court costs will also be requested.The above-described work was provided to your property, at your instance, by the Claimant. If payment is not made within ten days (10) of receipt of this demand, Claimant intends to file a Mechanic's Lien, without further notice. If you have any questions or wish to make payment arrangements, please call immediately to discuss.Dated: ____________________________________________________________ (Signature and Title)
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